THE roaring ’20s were a time of revolution. In the aftermath of World War I, a new era of economic growth emerged and, in turn, a new dawn of culture. Fashion was celebrated like never before, Art Deco architecture came to prominence and, erm, Heinz Baked Beans began being manufactured in the United Kingdom.
I mention this last point because, as hosts of six-part documentary series The Supersizers Eat..., Giles Coren and Sue Perkins eat baked beans. And lots of them.
Each week, the series features the pair “experiencing” another era – through the clothes they wear, the activities they undertake, the language they use and, most importantly, the food they eat. In recreating the 1920s this week, Facebook, Twitter and iPhones are out, and bob haircuts, V-neck sweaters and swing music are in.
Coren is best known as a restaurant critic for The Times who, in 2008, blew a fuse and emailed a profanity-laden letter to his sub-editors criticising them for removing a single word from one of his reviews. The letter was leaked, and Coren’s name became known to many who had never read any of his pieces.
Perkins is a jack-of-all-trades – a comedian, radio broadcaster and TV presenter.
Together, the pair have a natural chemistry that proves irresistible. As they meet in an Art Deco-inspired hotel room to begin their ’20s adventure, they share a giggle, clearly amused that they’re getting paid to play dress-ups.
Throughout the hour-long program, they go motor racing at Brooklands, enjoy cocktails at The Ritz and volunteer during the recreated general strike of 1926. Plenty of historical context is provided, along with archival footage and laidback chats with historians and academics.
But the main focus is on the food, or for Coren and Perkins to ‘‘eat their way through the decade’’.
Perkins begins a week-long diet of laxatives, which were increasingly popular with women in the 1920s due to the desire to be thin. Before she pops her first pill, her nutritional expert warns her of low iron levels and increased cholesterol. By the end of the week, Perkins is feeling the effects.
Food writer Allegra McEvedy prepares the pair a lavish banquet of oysters, beef casserole, risotto and some of the world’s first canned food (thankfully, the cans haven’t been sitting in the cupboard since the ’20s).
The show is entertaining, enjoyable and mouth-watering – can’t ask for much more than that.
Thursday, SBS One, 8.30pm.
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